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Stage 7: Bóveda - San Millán de San Zadornil

Description

Valderejo and the Montes Obarenes

The first half of stage seven runs through the province of Araba/Álava, the Valderejo area, and the second half through the province of Burgos, the Mount Obarenes and San Zadornil area, covering the foothills that are furthest to the east of the Cantabrian mountain chain. It is of enormous ecological and scenic value as it is a transition area between Atlantic and Mediterranean environments. Almost the entire route in this stage covers zones declared natural protected areas owing to their diverse array of flora and fauna, their forest ecosystems and their landscapes, which the inhabitants of these lands have been able to preserve for centuries. In this respect, the gorge of the River Purón, which offers trekkers’ magical spots, is worthy of special mention.

The stage begins in Bóveda, following a road that leaves in a south-westerly direction, next to this town’s sports facilities. A few metres further on, it forks into two farming tracks where you should take the one on the left, the Fuente Tejera path, which runs across arable land in the direction of Sierra Bóveda. The trail leaves the meadow, and gradually heads into this mountain range’s wooded hillsides, to then climb for some 3.5 km along a forest track that becomes gradually steeper, with an increment of almost 400 m, until it reaches the “Portillo de la Sierra” watershed.

From the top, you can contemplate magnificent views of both sides: to the north Valdegovía and, in the background, Sierra Salvada; to the south, the Valley of the River Purón in the district of Valderejo, declared a Natural Park, with the Sierra Arcena in the background and the town of Lalastra, where this stage continues, in the foreground.

Vista general del desfiladero del río Purón

From El Portillo, you zigzag down the southern slope of Sierra Bóveda via a very steep gravel and concrete track. Offering views of Valderejo, the route continues until it crosses an asphalted road which, taken on the right, leads to Lalastra, a unique, charming town set in the middle of the Valderejo Natural Park. On following the road, you cross Lalastra, where, after passing by the last house, you come to the Valderejo Natural Park House, which is well worth visiting. Nearby, a gravel path, which leads to the canyon of the River Purón, begins. After a slightly uneven kilometre across a treeless hill, the route enters a pine grove as it begins to descend gently for 1.5 km until it comes into contact, for the first time, with the River Purón. This flowing river is set in a canyon between rocky walls that shape a splendid geomorphological landscape. The path accompanies the route of the river along the canyon for approximately one kilometre until it reaches a turn-off that you have to take on the right via a bridge that crosses the river itself. The numerous collapsed stonework walls in the area are the ruins of the old houses of the abandoned village of Ribera. The only element of the village left standing is the church, which, although it is in a state of collapse, is located on a small hill that enables it to stand out above the lush vegetation that covers the ruins.

A few metres away from the bridge, you have to turn leftwards taking a path that continues parallel to the River Purón, along its left bank, crossing an area where the meadow widens and boasts rich riverside vegetation formed mainly of poplars (Populus sp.), willows (Salix sp.) and ash trees (Fraxinus sp.). After crossing the meadow area, the track changes into a path and enters the gorge of the River Purón, a narrow pass through which the River has forged a pathway across Sierra Arcena. The path descends next to the river, moving through narrow passes at the foot of limestone overhangs, close by pools, waterfalls and other whims of nature that offer trekkers a truly appealing scene. Nevertheless, you should pay attention to the path as it is stony and twisted, even though it is outfitted with facilities such as steps, rails, etc. that guarantee its safety.

Casa del Parque Natural de Vaderejo

After approximately one kilometre into the gorge, the trail forks and you have to take the left-hand side turn-off. The trail climbs a very steep, rough path that has an incline of some 250 m in a distance of barely one kilometre; this so-called path of Herrán moves away from the River Purón as it gains height, bettering your view of the valley. The path ends via a forest track; the approximate point where the stage continues across Burgos territory, specifically through the Jurisdiction of San Zadornil. This area belongs to the region of Las Merindades, and was declared the Natural Park of Montes Obarenes-San Zadornil, after that of Valderejo, in the province of Álava.

Following the forest track leftwards, the stage continues without any significant slopes. The track crosses outstanding mixed forest masses of conifers and hardwoods, mainly pines (Pinus sp.), beeches (Fagus sylvatica), Holm oaks (Quercus ilex) and gall-oaks (Quercus faginea), which, together with a rich stratum of bushes, form a lovely forest landscape. After continuing some 2.5 km along the track, you come to the first residential hub in the Valley of San Zadornil —Villafría de San Zadornil—, where there is a rest area suitable for regaining your strength so you can tackle the last third of the stage.

After crossing the town, you progress southwards along an asphalted access road. Once outside the town, you take the first turn-off on the right, on a sharp bend, along a forest gravel and dirt track, which you enter at the same height in an extensive mass of Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) that is very well-preserved thanks to its sustainable use. After covering one kilometre along the track, you will take a turn-off to the left along a properly signposted path that merges into a descending forest track under a canopy of trees. After 3.5 km, you come to the town of San Zadornil, which is located in a small cultivated meadow between mountain ranges and limestone hills. The presence of some old specimens of chestnut trees (Castanea sativa) next to the path that leads to this town is worthy of mention.

In San Zadornil, you can visit the House of the Natural Park of Montes Obarenes-San Zadornil, where you can enjoy exhibitions related to the valuable natural environment that led to the Park’s declaration.

Paso sobre el arroyo Polledo, afluente del río Purón

After covering some of the town’s streets, you continue along its main access road and immediately take a farm track that emerges on the right. After some metres, the track once again merges with the road and then passes through a small gorge which the Paúles stream uses to cross Sierra Bóveda. A few metres after passing through the gorge, you should take another farm track that emerges on the right, bordering the pine mass and then crossing the meadow of the River Omecillo. Next to its bank there stands the town of San Millán de San Zadornil, the end of the stage. This town is the main gateway to the Natural Park of the Montes Obarenes-San Zadornil.

This stage is rather difficult to cover by bicycle. Firstly, the climb up to Sierra Bóveda from Bóveda which, given its steep slope, is a very physically demanding stage. Likewise, the pass through the gorge of the River Purón, especially the climb up the path of Herrán, cannot be covered by bicycle because of its steep slope, its winding layout, its uneven surface and the steps in some parts.

Vista de Villafría San Zadornil y área de descanso

Riverbank copses and ecosystems that form a land habitat filled with a whole host of fauna survive in this riverside environment. In the riverbank copses, you can see a diverse array of birds, such as the nightingale (Luscinia megarhynchos), the purple heron (Ardea purpurea), the wryneck (Jynx torquilla), the black kite (Milvus migrans), the turtle dove (Streptopelia turtur), the kingfisher (Alcedo atthis) and the bee-eater (Merops apiaster); fish, such as the carp (Cyprinus carpio) and the barbel (Luciobarbus guiraonis); amphibians and reptiles, such as the green frog (Rana perezi), the viperine snake (Natrix maura); and mammals, such as the shrew (Crocidura russula), the vole (Pitymys duodecimcostatus), the genet (Genetta genetta), the fox (Vulpes vulpes) and the boar (Sus scrofa).

Another of the routes will take us to the Sotos del Ebro, an itinerary that runs 30 kilometres along the banks of the river, and which begins at the hill of Santa Bárbara, a viewpoint over the city of Tudela from where you can see the River Ebro, its kitchen gardens and its groves. This path takes you as far as La Mejana, a small kitchen garden area that has been cultivated since Arab times, and as far as the dam of Las Norias and El Soto de los Tetones, which is covered with extensive rice fields. The route continues along the “Pasada Principal del Ebro” cattle track, passing through protected groves, such as La Remonta, El Aguadero, El Ramalete Alto, El Aislado, Sardavilla, Vergara and Traslapuente.

Finally, we must not forget that, in Tudela, the Agua Soriano-Path Antonino Nature Trail links up with the Nature Trail of El Ebro (GR 99), and that St. James’s Way of the River Ebro heading for Santiago de Compostela passes through the city.

Map

Profile

MIDE (Method for the Information of Excursions)

(Calculated according to the MIDE criteria for an average excursionist with a light load)

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Further information

Valderejo Natural Park and SCI and Valderejo-Sierra Aracena SPA for Birds and IBA

The area of the Valderejo Natural Park and that of the Valderejo Site of Community Importance practically coincide. They are located at the western end of Araba/Álava and have a surface area of 3,496 ha.

The River Purón, whose valley is surrounded by rocky escarpments, crosses these spaces. Worthy of note among them is the gorge the river flows through to reach the Valley of Tobalina, which boasts crops and pastures verifying that, in the past, it was used for livestock and agricultural purposes. Furthermore, these areas are an excellent example of autochthonous forests, mainly oak and beech groves and extensive areas of Scots pines.

With respect to the fauna, worthy of note is this area’s importance for birdlife, especially the nesting colony of Griffon vultures (Gyps fulvus) in Valderejo, which is the largest in the Basque autonomous community. Furthermore, in this area, you can see examples of other rock-dwelling species, which is why the territorial areas of the Valderejo Natural Park and the Valderejo SCI are included in the S.P.A. for Birds Valderejo-Sierra ofArcena and IBA 32 Valdegovía-Sierra Arcena. The surface areas of the S.P.A. for Birds and of the IBA extend northwards, beyond the boundaries of the Natural Park and the Site of Community Importance.

The Natural Park has an information centre in Lalastra (Araba/Álava).

Montes Obarenes-San Zadornil Natural Park, SCI and Montes Obarenes SPA for Birds

The Montes Obarenes-San Zadornil Natural Park and the Montes Obarenes Site of Community Importance, whose territorial areas coincide, are located in the province of Burgos, at the southern end of the Cantabrian Mountain Range, forming a geographical link between this mountain range and the Pyrenees.

This area, of approximately 33.064 ha, is unique in terms of geomorphological complexity, as it features deep canyons and cliffs moulded by rivers such as the River Ebro, the River Oca and the River Purón.

It is a transition area between the Atlantic and Mediterranean biogeographical regions, which guarantees the enormous richness and diversity of its flora and fauna species. In this way, worthy of note is its complexity with respect to the forest systems it houses, featuring extensive kermes oak and gall-oak groves presided by black laurustinus (Spiraea hispánica) —a Castilian-Cantabrian endemism—, beech trees, hazelnuts, Pyrenean oaks, quaking aspens, lindens and a cork plantation. Harvested meadows are also mixed with croplands in its landscape.

With respect to its fauna, a total of 128 vertebrate species have been catalogued in this natural protected space. Its declaration as a Special Protection Area for Birds stems from its importance for the reproduction of the Griffon vulture, as it houses 10% of the total population of Castilla y León and 2% of the Spanish flock. The other birdlife species that populate the area today are joined by the wide range of migratory birds that visit the Sobrón reservoir.

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